WELCOME TO SALVADOR DA BAHIA!
I fell in love with Brazil when I came here the first time during a round the world trip in 2002. I planned to stay about one month, but I extended the stay to four months before I continued travelling. Since then I have been travelling around in Brazil several times and I just get to love this country more and more.
Brazil is a beautiful country with beautiful people who mostly are very open and friendly. Brazilian music, language (Portuguese) and culture, especially in the northeast, goes right into my heart.
On this site I'm mainly focusing on Bahia and one of my favorite cities, Salvador. I want to give some information about nice accomodation, things to do and links to useful websites about Salvador.
If you go to Salvador, don't be afraid to visit and experience Salvador outside the tourist areas (Pelourinho and Barra).
ACCOMODATION
INFORMATION ABOUT SALVADOR AND BRAZIL
ABOUT SALVADORTRAVEL IN BRAZIL
TRAVEL TO BRAZIL
OTHER TRAVEL DESTINATIONS
Essential ToursCubacation
ABOUT SALVADOR
If you want any kind of information about Salvador I recommend two good sites. The first is the official tourist site in Salvador www.emtursa.ba.gov.br. Here you will find all basic tourist information about Salvador. If you want a little more personal site with "off the beaten track" information, I suggest that you take a look at www.bahia-online.net.
TRAVEL BY AIR AND BUS IN BRAZIL
If you have a lot of time to travel in Brasil I suggest that you travel by bus, since you get to see a lot more of the country. The buses (executivo) are comfortable and you'll get the time to chat with a lot of Brasilians during the trip. But if you have less time you will be better off flying, because the distances here in Brasil are huge.
There are various bus companies that frequents different routes and destinations in Brazil. I have listed the biggest ones here:
www.bomfim.com.br - To/from Salvador to/from Aracajú, Maceió and Joao Pessoa
www.aguiabranca.com.br - To/from Salvador to/from Ilhéus, Rio de Janeiro, Vitoria, Itacaré, Porto Seguro and Valenca
www.itapemirim.com.br - To/from Salvador to/from Rio de Janeiro, Porto Alegre, Recife, Fortaleza, Belém
www.realexpresso.com.br - To/from Salvador to/from Brasilia, Lencois (Champada Diamantina), Porto Alegre
www.saogeraldo.com.br - To/from Salvador to/from Natal, Teresina, Belo Horizonte and Sao Paulo
In Salvador you can only buy bustickets at the busterminal (Rodoviária), or you can have them delivered to your hotel/hostel or apartment against a fee around 5-7real per delivery. There are however one travelagency in Lapa where you can buy some of the buscompanies tickets to some of the routes.
There are some low fare companies that fly in Brazil, and the prices on highly frequented routes like Rio/Sao Paulo-Salvador are sometimes even cheaper than the bus.
www.voegol.com.br
www.tam.com.br
www.oceanair.com.br
www.varig.com.br
www.webjet.com.br
Some of these companies do not sell tickets over the internet if you do not have a Brasilian identification card (Cpf). And since you probably are a tourist you don't have that. What you have to do is to go to a travel agency (agencia de viagem) and buy it from there, some of the agencies charge you for that, and others do not.
TRAVEL TO BRAZIL
If you want to fly direcly to Salvador from Europe you have only a few options. TAP www.flytap.com.br fly from Lisbon, they have connection flights from almost all over Europe. The other two are low fare companies that fly from Madrid www.aireuropa.com, and from Frankfurth www.condor.com. You can of course also fly to Rio with any big air company, and from there fly domestic to Salvador.
If you live in Sweden and want to buy a flight ticket to Brazil I advise you to call some travel agencies to compare prices, even the internet is a good place to look, as everybody already knows. But I do have two suggestions where you usually can find the best prices: www.brasilienspecialisten.se (they have agencies in Stockholm and Halmstad), and www.tropikresor.se (a travel agency on the internet, also based in Stockholm).
TO SEE AROUND SALVADOR
Lagoa Abaeté
Lagoa Abaeté is a lake area in Itapua surounded with a lot of simple restaurants and bars. During the weekends, especially Sunday nights, the bars are packed with brasilians having a good time. Definitely worth a visit if you want to escape tourist areas and hang out with brazilians. The beach area in Itapua is also full of nice bars where you can meet locals.
Praia do flamengo
Praia do flamengo is a nice beach close to Itapua. It's crowded on weekends, but during the week there is less people. The beach has a lot of "barracas" (typical beach bar and restaurants that you can find all over Brasil) where you can eat. It's a bit expensive here, and you'll do best in checking your bill before paying because sometimes they are topping your bill.
Ribeira
Spend a Sunday in Ribeira and you will meet a lot of nice locals having a good time relaxing on the beach with an ice cold beer. It's not the best beach to take a swim at, but the vibe is really nice and there's a lot of music and dancing going on in the street and on the bars at the sidewalk. Here you'll also will find the oldest and most famous icecream bar in Salvador. The best time to be here if you want to party is betwheen 3 pm to 21 pm, after that it can get a little ruffer.
Itaparica island
Itaparica is the biggest of 56 islands in the bay (Bahia todos as Santos) right outside Salvador. If you want to escape the city and just chill out with the locals, Itaparica is the place. During the summer there's a lot of Brazilian tourists here, especially during the weekends. It's easy to get here from Salvador by boat from Comercio in the center (Cidade baixa).
Morro de Sau Paolo
Morro is beautiful village situated on the Tinharé Island, south from Salvador. The island is host to kilometers of pristine beaches fringed with palm trees, calm crystalline waters with great swimming, snorkeling and diving. One of the beaches on the island (Quarta Praia) is very nice, at low tide you can find your own little natural pool among the reefs.
The main village is just a short walk from the pier. You will find many good restaurants on the main street of the village leading to the first beach. Access to Morro by land is via the picturesque colonial town of Valença, and then boat on the River Una, lined with mangroves, followed by a short stretch of open sea. There is also a daily catamaran service from Salvador.
Praia do Forte
Praia do forte is a famouse tourist district located about one and a half hours by bus from Salvador. The village is built around a strip of restaurants, shops, hotels and guesthouses. The beaches are kilometers of white sand, lined with palm trees and dotted with barracas. Praia do forte is also famouse for their turtles.
Capoeira
In and outside Salvador you can find a lot of capoeira schools. Capoeira was born in the "senzalas", the places where the slaves were kept. It consists of a stylized dance, practiced in a circle called the "roda", with sound background provided by percussion instruments. Capoeira is highly acrobatic, energetic and difficult to master, but worth a try if you get here. For information about Capoeira Masters in Salvador take a look at www.bahia-online.net.
Chapada Diamantina
Chapada Diamantina is a National Park located 450 Km from Salvador (6 hours by bus). The Park is a mountain area with mountains 1200 m above sea level located within the central region of the state of Bahia. It's 152.000 hectares of mountains, rivers, falls, and caves. If you like hiking this is the place to go.If you go here from Salvador It's best to take the bus To Lencóis, but you can also enter the park from other towns like Palmeira, Andaraí and Vale Do Capo.
Ilha do Maré
Is a small, nice and non touristy island in Baía Todos os Santos. You can get there with a boat from Terminal Turístico Martímo close to Mercado Modelo. You can also take a bus to Estacao Lapa, and from there take the bus to Base Nave/Sao thomé at the bottom level (C41) in Estacao Lapa. You can take the same bus from the bus stop below elevador lacerda (the famous elevator in Salvador). From there you go with a small boat to the island. This way is cheaper and more interesting and adventurous since you get to see a lot of Salvadors suburbs.
Feira Sao Joaquim
You will find the biggest fair in southAmerica at Sao Joaquim. There you can find everything from food to woodworks, and a lot of "afro-Brasilian culture". To get there from Barra you take the bus to Ribeira. Then you'll get off in front of the fair.
Tuesdays night in Pelourinho
Tuesdays is the big night out in Pelourinho, the old city in Salvador with beautiful colonial houses and narrow streets. There is always something going on in Pelorinho, but thuesday nights are the busiest night during the week. During the high season it can be a little touristic for my taste, but it's a must see if you visit Salvador.
Concha Acústica
Concha Acústica is a outdoor stage located behind Teatro Castro Alves in Campo Grande. During the summer there are a lot of shows with big Brazilian bands and artists here. The conserts are called "sua nota é um show". It's usually easy to buy tickets outside Teatro Casro Alves before the show.
EVENTS
São João
From the 22nd-24th of June the São João Festival is commemorated throughout the state with bonfires, fireworks, Forró music and square dancing as well as copious amounts of liquors and local delicacies. It is the most popular event in Bahia, next to Carnival. Forró is the typical music at this time of year, and starts already in May. The biggest parties are in small villages and cities outside Salvador, but you can find some action in Pelourinho.
Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte
This festival is being held the first Friday before the 15th of August. The festival's main objective is to thank the goddes "for liberty granted". This celebration has been held for more than a century in the city of Cachoeira, located in the area surrounding All Saints' Bay.
Dia do Samba
On the 2nd of December you will find Interesting music happenings with Samba music, most of them in the historical Pelourinho.
Festa de Santa Barbara 4-6th of December
Dedicated not to the saint but to the goddess Iansã. In an example of Bahian syncretism, the patron saint of both the fire brigade and of the markets, St Barbara, is known in the Candomblé religion as the queen ofthunder and lightning. The celebrations start at the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, in Pelourinho, and ends in the Baixa dos Sapateiros, where St Barbara's market is located.
New Year's Eve
The best show and the largest fireworks happen on the beach and at the lighthouse in Barra. On new years day there's a show with Daniela Mercury and friends at the lighthouse that starts around 6pm.
Bom Jesus dos Navegantes
On New Years day hundreds of vessels of all types sail through the bay carrying the image of Good Jesus from Conceição da Praia church to the Chapel at Boa Viagem, a beautiful procession of faith.
Festas de Reis
On 3-6 of January there's an extension of the Christmas celebrations that represent the visit of the Magi to the Christ Child. The party is located at Largo da Lapinha, against the backdrop of All Saints' Bay. Stands known as "barracas" are set up to sell beverages and local fare to the many participants. On the night of January the 5th, the eve of the Epiphany on the 6th, singing groups called Ternos de Reis perform traditional Portuguese songs dressed in period costumes. The faithful remember, in song and dance, the Three Kings' visit to the baby Jesus.
Lavagem do Bomfim
Lavagem do Bomfim is a religius celebration of Senhor do Bomfim that takes place the 2nd Thursday in January. It's a festive procession from Igreja Nossa Sra. da Conceicao to Ingreja Nossa Sra. do Bomfim. Nearly 800,000 people dressed in white accompany traditional "Baianas" wearing typical multi-layered white-lace petticoats and turbans. This is one of my favorite parties and starts around 9.00 am and goes on all night long. You won't be dissapointed if you like music, dancing and joyful people.
Festival do Verão
During the last weekend in January there is a four day music festival at "Parque de Exposicao" in Salvador. There you will hear the biggest bands in Brazil, but also some international bands.
Festa de Yemanja
Festa de Yemanja is a celebration of the sea goddess that takes place every year on the 2nd of February in Rio Vermelho, close to Barra. Worshipers offer flowers, perfume and face powder to the goddess at the edge of the sea. And as always when Brazilian celebrates something there's a party, music, dancing and drinking.
Lavagem da Igreja de Itapuã
This is a pre-carnival party in Itapuã. The religious cermonies starts very early in the morning but then the party goes on all day and night, and this party is guaranteed tourist free.
Carnival
The Carnival starts sometime in february, but some yers it starts in the beginning of march, even tough it's very rare. The carnival in Salvador always starts on a Thursday and goes on to the following wednesday morning when it ends with arrastão around 10 am in barra. I suggest you to visit all the carnival areas, Campogrande, Barra and Pelourinho.
BARS AND RESTAURANTS
Mahi-Mahi
If you just want to relax in the sun with some good food and a nice place to take a swim I recommend Mahi-Mahi. It's a beach club located on a pier beside the cliffs in Vitoria about 20 minute walk, or 5 minutes with bus from Barra. You access the club with a cableway from Hotel Sol Vitoria Marina.
Largo 2 de Julho
Is a nice square in between Barra and Pelourinho. This is a place for those who like simple bars and just want to grab a beer and meet locals. The main street (Av. Carlos Gomes) that are beside the square get sleazy at night, but there are a busstop close to the Square. Or you can take a taxi to Barra from there for around 10 reais, or to pelourinho for around 6 reais.
Jardim Brasil
Area in Barra with bars and some nightlife. There you will find middle and upperclass Brazilians having a good time every night during the week except for Mondays.
Lotus Bar
In Salvador you'll find a lot of Brazilian and local music such as Samba, Forró, Axé, samba pagode, arocha and Afro etc. If you want some house, tecno or more western club music you'll find it at Lotus bar. Lotus bar is a expencive night club for young upperclass Brazilians. Starts late opposite the lighthouse in Barra on Fridays and Saturdays.
Praça da Cira Simple
A popular recreation area with a lot of simple bars and restaurants in Itapoã. Crowded during the weekend, but during the summer you'll find people here every night.
Largo do Santana
A popular daily meeting point in Rio Vermelho. Simple but very nice vibe, and some good restaurants and bars.
Pimentinha
The best Monday night hangout with some simple bars. Pimentinha is a very different and one of a kind bar Located in Boca do Rio, after Aeroclube. It starts about 22:00h and goes on until late on Mondays. It's kind of hard to find here and I suggest that you take a taxi since the area can be a little dangerus after dark.
Boca de Galinha
Boca de Galinha is a restaurant located in the suburb Plataforma. It's a very simple restaurant with a nice view over the bay between Plataforma and Ribeira that only work during weekends. Even tough it's simple it has got a very good repetation and it's actually the only restaurant in Salvador where I had to sign a waitinglist to get in because it was so full. But it's nice to take a cold beer outside while waiting. You'll get here by commuter train from Calcada or by a small boat from Ribeira.
Churrascaria Villa's
Churrascaria is a Brazilian steakhouse and the word churrasco means barbecue. At Villa's they offer rodizio service, waiters come to your table with meat, be it beef, pork, filet mignon, lamb, chicken, duck, ham (and pineapple), sausage, fish, or any other sort of local cut of meat. Except from the rodizio they offer a sushi and salad buffet, and you pay a fixed price and eat as mutch as you can. There are a lot of Churrascerias around Salvador, but this is one of the better ones, but the prices is still very affordable.